Upstyle consultations.

Jackie O's wedding hair is a popular request for brides

Still low on the neck, but with a soft natural look, gives a whole different look

Tomorrow night I am guiding our assistants through an upstyle training night. So I thought I would take a moment to recap on consulting for an upstyle. For me, the consultation is the most crucial part of the appointment. The first thing I do is assess the hair. In other words if their hair is tied up, take it out and get your fingers in there. This is so you can gauge how thick the hair is, the length of any layers, is it clean? Next, find out if they have any existing ideas of how they want their hair to look, or if they have brought pictures. Then I start to break down the style into it's parts. I do this if they have a photo or not, as often they like parts of the style, but would like to personalise others. If they have a photo of a celebrity I will cover the face while I talk through the style. This is to bring the focus right to the hair, not the glamorous image of the celeb. I ask what it is about the picture they like.
The texture- Would they like curls or straight? Messy or groomed? If curls, how tight? Maybe crimped, or afro. Maybe a wet look, or really sleek. Some girls like their hair to look like it was raked back with fingers, others like the smooth perfection of fresh brushed hair. This will tell you the tools you will need for your preparation, and also the products you will need.
Height and width- How much volume do they want in their hair? Someone with a round face will usually prefer more height than width. A tall person or someone with a long face may not want to add to much extra height. Be specific. This will tell you if you need to rewet the hair, and blowdry the roots to add volume, or maybe just back-comb the hair.
Fringe/Face frame- This is the part that your client will see the most, so they have to feel comfortable with it. Do they always part in the same place? This might not be the best time to change it. Will their hair bother them in their face? Do they want hair falling softly around their face? All brushed back? Do they want their ears covered, uncovered? Your client will probably have the strongest ideas about this aspect of the style.
Placement- The focal point of the style can be placed almost anywhere on the head. Find out if they want to be able to see any of this feature from the front. Hair can be gathered at the nape, off to one side, centred at the back of the head, piled up high, directed towards the front like a mohawk, spilling around the sides like a halo, even draped over a shoulder. This should also give you an idea of the size of the feature, in case you need to use paddings to fill out the shape.
Techniques- Within the style you can use a variety of braids, twists, knots, curls, rolls or chignons. Each will give a different feel to the style. While a client will sometimes have a bias for or against some of these techniques, this is usually the place for you as a stylist to add your own personal style to the look. Suggest a few options that your client may not have thought of, and make sure you know how to perform a variety of finishes.
It can also be handy to know where your client is going, to assess the suitability of the styles you are suggesting. In windy weather on a beach, for example, a loose chignon with free falling hair around the face will get blown away. Also, some styles are just too extravagant for a casual event. If you're asking about the dress being worn, the important questions are about the silhouette of the dress, and the neckline. If the neckline of the dress is high or very busy, you will want to lift the hair up and away to make the most of it. The shape of the silhouette is important, so you can balance the proportions of the overall look.
The answers to these questions will give you a complete picture of your upstyle. Assuming that their hair is suitable to achieve this look, repeat back to them what the finished look will entail, and get started. While you are behind the client, pinning their hair, don't forget to check the mirror to see what the client is seeing, and check in every now and then, to make sure it is coming together the way they imagined. Better to change direction midway, than have to start over once you're finished. Happy styling!