Creating great shapes

original picture from Fudge International Collection 2008

I realised today that my square layer fixation is part of a bigger issue, vertical elevation. If there is one part of haircutting that I think is under emphasised, it is layering techniques that pull out to the side, instead of always up. When I first see a new client, I start by assessing what layering, if any has been done below the crest of the head. If you think about the rules of hair travel, (how far the hair has to travel, to reach the guide line) it should make sense that any vertical elevation, will create short layers, but a heavy perimeter. Vertical elevation in this case, is any of the techniques that elevate the hair above the head, and vertical elevation itself is not the problem, but it needs to be balanced usually, with some sort of layering technique that pulls out to the back or side of the head. This would prevent the hat-like effect I see so often, where the short layers on top fall into a round bowl shape, sat on top of a solid form. Look at this on the next few clients you see. Elevate a vertical section of the layers, so it is parallel to the side of the head, but does not go higher. If there is a disconnection in length between the short top and the longer middle, then the hair will not flow smoothly throughout the shape, there will be bumps. If there is a distinct corner, then there will be an area of weight where that section of hair lands. Knowing how to control the elevation to give the result your client is after, creates hair that is easy for them to recreate, because the haircut does all the work, instead of the blowdry.